Lace, velvet, fur, ruching, pleating and tucks were some of the various fabrics and techniques designers at New York Fashion Week used to create texture for fall 2011. This use of texture made for an interesting fall showing from New York and many were pleasantly surprised. Discover which designers nailed the use of texture and which ones could use a little more practice.
The Best Uses of Texture During New York Fashion Week Fall 2011
The following designers used texture in ways that are attractive and pleasing to the eye. They knew when to pull back and what textures worked well together. In addition, their execution of such techniques as folds, ruching, pleating, beading and appliqué were flawless.
Calvin Klein – Francisco Costa used subtle texture for this fall 2011 collection. Shorthaired furs with light embossing created subtle texture on top of texture. Mod inspired dresses were color and texture blocked pairing the subtlety of a heathered wool with a buttery leather.
Narciso Rodriguez – While his silhouettes left something to be desired, Rodriguez was smart with his use of texture. He relied heavily on color blocking to add interest to the collection. Some of the blocking paired leather with sheer and wool with chiffon creating a hard and soft texture in the same garment. Rodriguez also made use of piped seams to add textural interest to a color blocked black and light smoke colored sheer dress.
Dennis Basso – Texture and Dennis Basso are synonymous since this ready-to-wear designer began as a furrier. For fall 2011, Basso combined his furs with such pieces as sexy crocheted sweater dress and matching legwarmers. One of more stunning pieces was a sweater knit skirt, crochet-knit flutter accessorized with a leather and fur handbag. Basso has finally found the right formula for fashion and his furs.
The Worst Displays of Texture at New York Fashion Week Fall 2011
Most of these “worst” executed their techniques well. Unfortunately, the styling of the ensembles left much to be desired. Some just grouped together too much texture in one ensemble leaving you unable to focus on each piece. Unfortunately, one of the designer greats fell victim to this.
Oscar de la Renta – Overall there were more good pieces than bad in this collection, however, de la Renta gets a D+ for mixing textures. The designer’s collection was a return to luxury and opulence. However, the way textures were mixed in some of the garments changed opulent into gaudy. Such things as a coat with what appears to be at least 50 little balls trimming the front edge and hem, patchwork textures/patterns and embroidered motifs on top of an already texture-laden garment came out freakish-looking. Not to mention skirt muffs paired with a cropped jacket that is graphically a mess, looked more clownish than opulent.
VACCA – This collection looks like it tried for subtlety but could not quite manage it. The men’s wear inspired presentation featured such awkward garments as a black men’s style blazer with fuzzy, plaid wool sleeves. Also, a mess of a ruched bottom that was “scalloped” by topstitching ruined what could have been a beautiful kimono-style, paisley sleeveless skirt set. One has to wonder, who would do such things to clothing.
Custo Barcelona – While a textural mess, the garments are very punkish and would be a favorite with those who adore Lady Gaga or Niki Minaj. Over the top textural combinations like a plaid vest with a ruffled -edge front and fur collar worn over a graphic print shirt and super shiny leggings may make one’s eyes hurt. The texture mishaps crept into the men’s items as well making the collection a hot mess instead of just hot.
Tips for Wearing Texture in Any Season
– If wearing separates, either one garment should have texture or you can mix textures as long as they are lightly done and don’t clash. Think of combinations such as a Boucle sweater over a tweed or jacquard skirt.
– Wear simple shoes and hosiery when wearing garments that have obvious texture to them such as graphic prints or accordion pleating or folds.
– Be conscious of the placement of textural inserts. If a dress has a sequined, diamond shaped inset that runs across the tummy, the shine from the sequins will highlight any bulges or bloating in that area.
– Textured hosiery is a trend for fall. This type of hosiery looks best when worn with garments that have subtle texture or no texture to them at all.
There you have it, the best and worst uses of texture from New York Fashion Week Fall 2011. Just remember that the worst picks will not be sold in stores paired in the same manner they were on the runway. So, if a textured coat over a textured suit looked horrible on the runway, you can still wear each separately or with something else to balance out the texture. Even the worst turns out not to be so bad when seen piece by piece. So browse the collections and start thinking of what textures you will sport next fall!